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APPAREL & DRESS DESIGN
HAND MADE DRESSES
Why do you sew clothes by hand? Because this is the traditional French way of sewing
hand crafted clothes and I am half French. Hand work gives a softer finish than machine
sewing, it is particularly suited to sewing fine fabrics such as silk because the
hands “feel” the fabric and thereby control the “tension” of the sewing. Hand sewing
lends itself well to accurate interpretation of intricate shaping. There is only
a minimal risk of hand sewn stitches damaging delicate, expensive fabrics, and it
is also quite strong.
I use a back stitch for sewing seams. Some seams are sometimes sewn with two lines
of stitches for added strength, although if a back stitch comes undone, only a few
stitches will unravel. Quite often if a basic and simply constructed machine sewn
stitch in a line of stitching is cut or comes undone then the whole line of stitching
can be unravelled, simply by pulling on one thread which will undo the line of stitching
which that thread is attached to, although some machine stitching is made in such
a way that it is harder for the stitching to be unravelled in this way.
Plus; hand sewing gives a traditional couture finish, or in other words, a traditional
high quality crafted finish which has been used by tailors and couturiers (as well
as couturières) for centuries. Remember, the sewing machine was only invented in
sometime around the 19th Century and all clothes were sewn by hand before sewing
machines came into existence..
BIAS CUTTING
What is bias cutting? Bias cut clothes are cut across the diagonal of the weave of
the fabric, rather than on the straight grain of the weave. Bias cutting creates
soft, fluid, drapey clothes. Cutting garments on the straight grain produces a more
structured look.
UNIQUE DESIGNS - WORKS OF IMAGINATION
Are the designs unique? Yes; each design is created individually as an original work
of imagination. Do you sell ready-to-wear (prêt-à-porter) clothes? Although most
clothes are made to order, I do have some off-the-peg clothes for sale - see silk
dresses I hope to expand this to include a range of small editions of clothes as
well as one-off creations.
Why don’t you make trousers? Basically because I am a dress designer, not a tailor.
I have a natural instinct for cutting patterns for dresses; I am hopeless at cutting
patterns for trousers; I only work from my own patterns because I trade as a Designer/Dressmaker
and artist.
VISUAL ART
Why are you a visual artist as well as a dress designer? Because drawing was my first
love. I started designing clothes professionally for other people because other people
said they liked the clothes I designed for myself. I was brought up from a very early
age to sew my own clothes, as were my three sisters, and I started designing my own
patterns when I was very young because I could not find ready made paper patterns
for the clothes I wanted to wear. I have created and sold pictures and particularly
my cards in conjunction with designing dresses throughout my career.
HAND MADE
If you place so much emphasis on hand produced products, why do you draw with computers
as well as by hand? When I first started working, computers could not yet draw (well
not properly anyway) so all the studios I worked in produced artwork by hand, even
in the drawing office at NCR. The only exception to this was the text, which was
typed on separate sheets of paper, although some publications also used calligraphy
(hand written text). The paper that the text was printed, or written on was then
cut manually into a shape that would fit into the hand prepared artwork. The paper
was stuck with special glue that enabled the paper to be moved around on the main
artwork until it was in the right position. The excess glue could be removed from
the paper without damaging the artwork. When computers mastered the art of page layout,
they continued to use the terms “cut and paste” which originated from the hand work
that “paste-up artists” used to do.
From the late 1980s I used an electronic typewriter for my correspondence, but I
would not have a computer because it did not really fit with my ethos of keeping
hand sewing alive, producing frocks and gowns, and also producing hand made pictures.
DIGITAL ART
However, by the mid 1990s, I succumbed, and when I eventually discovered how easily
I could draw with a mouse, and realised that digital techniques could really expand
my artistic horizons, my sojourn into digital art was born and I started to produce
my collection of digital art.
GICLÉE PRINTS
What are giclée prints? They are prints produced using specialist ink jet printers,
created for printing high quality prints of photographs, graphics or fine art onto
various media, .e.g. quality photo paper, fine art paper, canvas. The inks are very
durable and the vibrancy of the colours should last for at least 75 years, or longer,
depending on the substrate they are printed onto. These are archival quality prints
which are fast becoming the normal format for 21st century Limited and Open Edition
prints, that will last for generations
FINE ART PAPERS
The fine art papers that my giclée prints are printed on are sometimes made from
cotton rag, which does not “yellow” with age, but which have a natural ivory colour
rather than bright white, or sometimes from wood free pulp, which means that the
lignin (which makes wood based paper go “yellow” with age) has been removed and the
cellulose buffered, often with calcium carbonate and they are all what are commonly
known as *acid free* papers, which means they have a high ph value which helps to
stop the paper yellowing with age (whatever the substrate) and it helps to give the
papers an archival quality. I use professional print services for these editions,
who produce their work to Fine Art Trade Guild standards. A Certificate of Authenticity
is usually provided with each print to authenticate the quality of the paper and
the high quality print standards that are used to produce the print.
COMMISSIONS
Do you only undertake private commissions? Although a lot of my commissions are for
private clients, I also undertake commissions for the commercial sector, and will
consider requests for Trade Orders for Note Cards, Fine Art Cards, Pictures, Prints,
Scarves, evening bags and hand made dresses